Saturday, August 31, 2013

Easy-bake ovens and Gender Balance

Today we got up early and hiked out with our backpacks to the place we catch the local bus, only to find we had forgotten today is the last Saturday of the month: Umuganda. Umuganda is a day where no one travels until after 11 am because they are all required to work in their communities or attend community meetings. If you travel, you can be stopped by the police. Even though mzungus are exempt, out here our only option is a local bus. So, no bus until 11:00 am, and it was only 6:30.

We had big plans to eat breakfast at Bourbon Cafe once we arrived in Kigali, so we were a little sad to head back to our house which currently has minimal food supplies. Once we got back I decided it was time to try out the oven portion of what I like to call our Easy Bake Oven:


Am I dating myself here? I totally had an easy-bake oven when I was a kid and baked my first purple masterpieces by the mighty power of lightbulb. (Thanks again Mom for letting me  mess up your kitchen!) 

About the size of a microwave, this has been serving as our stove, while 2 other non-functioning stoves serve as glorified trivets/ornamental statues for our house. It's been a long adventure with the kitchen and its definitely not over yet. 

I busted out my biscuit recipe and managed to make a small batch in spite of not having measuring spoons or cups and not knowing how hot the oven could get. They turned out OK but next time I'm definitely doubling the recipe... 2 each was not enough! 

The oven smoked a little and also smelled a bit like burnt plastic when I was done, but I'm going to call it: Success! 

Our landlord has hired a woman named Clementine to be our Jane-of-all-trades; she does some cleaning, some laundry and also functions as our daytime security guard. She also loves learning English and as we were working she kept coming by the back door asking how to say various household things in English. Robin was helping her out and getting a Kinyarwanda lesson in return: Sheets, cup, bucket... She also pointed out a child sitting up on top of our huge (and empty) rain tank. I was confused what he was doing there until I realized that there was someone else inside. Turns out it was her brother, inside the rain barrel cleaning it out, while the little boy 'supervised', watching from a seat with a good view up on top.

Robin started doing the dishes after our biscuit breakfast (we do them in buckets on the floor of our 'kitchen' room), while I was wandering around making tea and putting last night's dishes away. Clementine came by the door again, looked in and saw Robin scrubbing away and said succinctly: "Gender balance!"  At which point we all cracked up and agreed, yes, gender balance. (Her next question a few minutes later was, are you married? I think Robin's stock is going up around here.) Definitely my favourite moment of the day so far!

We're off to Kibuye as soon as we can get a bus. It's another town on Lake Kivu, where we were a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, the town we were in previously (Gisenyi/Rubavu) is now under a do not travel recommendation from the Rubavu/Goma border crossing all the way up to Uganda, for at least 5 km from the DRC border into Rwanda, due to shelling and gunfire. The situation is worsening but it remains to be seen how bad things will get. So far Kibuye and other parts south along the lake are still ok and not under advisory. 

I've been reading the story of Dian Fossey, of Gorillas in the Mist fame. I love the name she received while living on the volcano with the silverback gorillas: nyiramachabelli, or The Lone Woman of the Forest. Such a fascinating book, with such a terrible ending (spoiler alert: she is murdered). It was strange reading about her travels and adventures as I have been to most of the places mentioned in the book, including climbing Karisimbi volcano and seeing the Suza group of gorillas which included one old gorilla Fossey knew. 

Many of you will remember that memorable trip up the volcano the first time in 2009, where it ended up taking 10-12 hours and was an epic adventure. We're talking about maybe making the climb in September... Although prices have also climbed, to a rather bank-account rattling $750 US, just for the permit. This does not include travel to the park, accommodations or anything else, but it is a once-in-a-lifetime event. (Or possibly twice, as the case may be for me). 

Our work situation is a bit precarious here as the organization is having difficulty securing the proper permits. So, we are not allowed to work at the moment and are awaiting permission to continue our project. At this point we've lost quite a bit of momentum and are wondering if in fact we will be able to continue the project or what will happen. Hopefully we get to finish the project that began with such promise. However, pilot projects do have their challenges and the learning curves for everyone involved can be quite steep.

We'll see what happens!

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